How Do You Drivelapse?
Drivelapsing can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make it. For me, it started out easy, in 2009, but as the years have passed, I've gradually improved the quality of my videos. As a result, it's become more complicated. But don't be discouraged! You can make really good Drivelapse videos, very easily.
My first attempt at Drivelaping looked like this:
It was a simple setup. I purchased a Kodak Zi6 video camera (which was pretty awesome at the time, in 2009). I mounted it on a flexible-leg mini-tripod, and covered the dashboard with a black towel to reduce reflections in the glass.
The first thing I discovered is, the camera needs two points of contact. Just putting it on a tripod is not enough -- it will vibrate, no matter how well you've anchored the tripod to the dash. The camera also needs to touch the glass.
Eventually I did away with the tripod. It was too awkward to be quickly moved when leaving the car. I discovered that the camera could be easily wedged between the dash and the glass, using a suction cup on the window. The towel goes under the camera, to provide some cushion between the camera and the dash, which makes minor adjustments easier.
Over the years, I changed cameras a few times. I'm still using a Kodak video camera (two of them, actually, for redundancy), but I'm now using a PlayTouch. They aren't being made anymore, but as of 2015, you can still buy used ones on eBay, very cheaply.
I also built a metal frame, and mounted the cameras inside it. This makes it easier to handle the cameras, when slipping them into place, or taking them down. Since my power cords (usb cables) are attached to the frame, it reduces strain on the camera's connector socket (I had a couple of circuit boards break from strain on the wires).
So why am I using a discontinued camera? Why not use a GoPro? There are a few reasons. For one, I wanted something cheap. Since I'm using these on vacation, things happen. I didn't want to lose an investment of hundreds of dollars. Also, a lot of the action cameras on the market today have an extra-wide angle lens, which captures the dashboard, the wipers, the air vents, and lots of reflections. A less-wide angle actually looks better to me.
The Kodak cameras also have a few other particular features that some other cameras don't, and they're very important to Drivelapsing. You must use a camera that...
When I start driving, I hit Record. If I pull over or park, I stop recording. When I start again, I hit Record again. This way, I don't have a lot of motionless video to edit out, once I get home.
Every night, I download the day's video onto a laptop. When the trip is over, I start editing -- first assembling the different video clips into one video, then speeding it up. Most videos run at 400% to 800% speed.
In 2015, I added something new. I discovered a camera made specifically for time-lapse photography, from a company called Brinno. Instead of shooting real-time, 30-frames-per-second video, this camera shoots only a few frames per second, then creates a video file that's already accellerated. There are advantages and disadvantages to this approach, which I'll cover in my Review of the Brinnon TLC-200 Pro camera.
The long battery life of the Brinno allowed me to experiment with roof-mounting the camera. It took some trial and error, but I think the angle from the roof is superior to a dash-mounted shot. I also added a rear-facing camera. But for now, I'm still shooting both kinds of video. I'll talk more about mounting options on my Roof-Mount Options page.
Unfortunately, I am no longer accepting submissions for Drivelapse videos to include on this site. But, the good news is, an update to MyDrivelapse is coming soon, which will allow you to submit videos. You can still use this form to contact me, if you'd like. You can also see my latest videos, and contact me, through my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/takemytripdotcom