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June 2005

Traveling Through Darkness

   It was a great sunset. No, perhaps not the best one I'd ever seen, but it rated right up there. Pink, red, purple, blue and grey, with shadows cutting through the valley below. Joshua trees sprouting up to add a spikey contrast to the soft colors. Yes, it was just about perfect.



Sunset at Joshua Tree NP's Keys View

   But once the sun went down, I was left with a long journey, one that would test everything from my driving skills to my sanity.

   I was in Joshua Tree National Park, in southern California. Here, the almost human-looking trees outnumber actual humans probably ten-thousand to one. They also outnumber things like streetlights, gas stations, and roadsigns, all of which comfort suburb-dwellers like me.

   Once the sun was down, there was nothing left to see, no more pictures to take, no more trails to hike. All that was left was to leave. The nearest motel bed was at least an hour's drive away, by my estimation, so there was no point in wasting time. I gazed at the now dark purple sky one final time, and started driving.

   Joshua Tree offers plenty to do on its northern side. But in order to connect with the nearest interstate (I-10) as you leave the park, you must take a solitary two lane road, for 36 solitary miles.

   At the turn-off, I noted the miles on my odometer, and the time on my rental car's clock. "Maintain a good speed, and it shouldn't be long before I'm on the freeway," I thought.
But it wasn't that simple. From the heart of the park to its southern exit, the ribbon of asphalt wound its way down from the high desert, around countless twists and turns. There were no streetlights, no signs, and no traffic. The sky was now pitch black, with just a faint outline of the surrounding mountains visible on the horizon. Ahead and behind me, no other headlights or taillights.


 

   I reached for the radio. Nothing. That will teach me to rent a car without first making sure it had an antenna. The same for the cell phone. That "can you hear me now" guy must have never made it here.

   With no music or voices to break the silence, I was left with the hum of the motor, and the occasional screech of the tires, as I swerved to miss the creatures that crawled out into the road. The overwhelming quiet helped the thoughts inside my head to became louder than ever.

   I calculated my miles and my speed. I estimated how long it would be, before I reached the interstate. I was quiet at first, then realized there was no point in not speaking aloud.
I pondered life, love, direction and purpose. I wondered if I missed a curve, how long it would take for someone to find me.

   Then, a glimmer of light on the horizon: a set of tail lights, probably a mile away. They were there, then gone, then appeared again.

   I wondered who was in that car. Had he seen me? Was he also desparate to spot another human?

   18 miles down. That's halfway! If I keep driving the same speed, that means... another 40 minutes? Can I take it?

   The darkness wrapped around me. How could it be getting even darker? I kept dodging tiny animals in the road, but began to realize at times, the animals were only in my mind.

   The car that was once several miles in front of me is now a little closer. I couldn't see the interstate, but I wonder if he could?


 

 

   In the silence I began to wonder if this would make a good episode, perhaps, of the Twilight Zone. Maybe it should be turned into a college-student style movie, and be shown at some alternative film festival. The thoughts inside my head could provide the narration.

   Then, the sight I had hoped for. A tiny string of twinkling headlights. It was almost as if someone had strung a line of christmas lights across the desert floor. It was I-10... it was other people.

   Just before leaving the park, I pulled over at the side of the road. After stepping out of my car, I walked around back, and leaned against the dusty trunk. I looked up at the moon, and down at the shadow it cast. Then I stared into the darkness I had just driven through--the darkness that tried to get the best of me. Funny, from there, it didn't look so frightening after all.

Jump to my visit to Joshua Tree National Park
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